A Journey Through Peru - Part 6 - The Route of the Sun, Puno to Cusco

Another long road trip beckons; 11 hours by touristic bus via the Raya Pass to cross the continental divide between the Amazon River basin to the North and the Lake Titicaca basin to the South. The Route of the Sun touristic bus means we will stop to sightsee at some interesting places on our way from Puno to the city of Cusco.

A woman displays her wares by the roadside on the Raya Pass

We stop at the ancient Incan ruins of Raqch'i, a large walled site that served as an administrative and ceremonial centre and a control point on the road from Cusco, ancient capital of the Incan empire. It is largely ruins now because it was destroyed by Spanish colonists in the 16th century. Whilst we aren't there yet, the reason that Machu Picchu is so special is because it is almost complete, as it was never discovered by the Spanish during their occupation. Anyway, back to Raqch'i, where the Spanish built a stone church on the site, made from the volcanic rocks found locally and, dare I say, not the Spanish colonialists finest work.

Iglesia di Raqch'i. It has a quirky charm, I suppose.


The town buildings and church seen through a gap in the ruined wall of the Incan Temple of Wiracocha

Our next stop is the Church of San Pedro Apostol in the small town of Andahuaylillas. Modestly pretty on the outside it "explodes with high-density Andean Baroque art and a huge main altar covered in 24-carat golf leaf" on the inside. It is often referred to as the Sistine Chapel of the Americas. Unfortunately you will have to take my word for that because no pictures are allowed to be taken of the interior.

The modestly pretty exterior of The Church of San Pedro Apóstol (Saint Peter the Apostle) in Andahuaylillas

Eventually we arrive in Cusco, ancient capital of the Incan empire, but now a fusion of Incan and Spanish colonial architecture. Cusco is in a bowl surrounded by mountains and a consequence its narrow streets are very steep as you navigate away from the centre. The main square of Cusco boasts two huge churches, an impressive cathedral and the equally ornate Church of the Society of Jesus. Both were built on the foundations of Inca palaces.

A brightly decorated street in Cusco


Church of the Society of Jesus, Cusco

We have a couple of days to explore the city before we head to the Sacred Valley...

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